Recipes so good it oughta' be a sin!


Sunday, October 30, 2011

Apple Fritters

With a few apples still left from my various apple dishes since our trip to the orchard, I decided to try a recipe from America's Test Kitchen for Apple Fritters.

But, before I get to the fritters, I need to vent. Obviously, I'm from the south. For years I've listened to people make jokes about a southern standby - grits. The jokes and disdain have been endless, from a scene in My Cousin Vinny to friends who have acted shocked when told grits are just ground corn boiled with water. Sometimes you'd think you'd suggested someone from up north eat dog food the way they react to grits.

But now a big trendy side dish is polenta. Honestly, I had little idea what it was. Someone said it was made "with corn" but I'd never really bothered to find out more. Then I was watching a cooking show on TV and they were doing Parmesan Polenta. The host started off with a big pot of boiling water. That looked pretty familiar. Then they explained about the polenta itself. It was ground corn. Ground corn? That's grits. OK, then we take the "polenta" and put it in the boiling water with a pinch of baking soda (an old grits trick) and some salt. You stir it, then you let it simmer, then stir it, then let it simmer and finally rest. Then you mix in some cheese and serve it. That's cheese grits except we usually use cheddar in the south.

I actually found myself laughing. Serve someone Creamy Parmesan Polenta and they'll swoon over a trendy new dish. Give them some good old fashioned cheese grits and they'll act like you're a rube. I swear, food trends leave me shaking my head sometimes.

Anyway, back to apple fritters. This recipe was pretty good. I didn't particularly care for the glaze called for in the original as it was far too thin and soaked right into the fritters leaving them a bit soggier than I would like. I'll give you my recipe for a nice glaze that won't be soaked up by the fritter so you'll have a nice interior texture and pretty tops.

Cider is called for in the recipe but if you find that you don't want a really strong apple flavor to the dough (since you're using diced apples in the fritter) you can always substitute apple juice which is lighter in flavor.

: Apple Fritters
: Fresh apples and cider combine in a delightful fried pastry.

Ingredients

FRITTERS
  • 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon Salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 3/4 cup apple cider
  • 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
  • 3 cups peanut or vegetable oil
GLAZE
  • 3 cups confectioners' sugar
  • 1/4 cup apple cider

Instructions

  1. Spread prepared apples in single layer on paper towel–lined baking sheet and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. Combine flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg in large bowl. Whisk cider, eggs, and melted butter in medium bowl until combined. Stir apples into flour mixture. Stir in cider mixture until incorporated.
  2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat to 350°. Following step 1, use 1/3-cup measure to transfer 5 heaping portions of batter to oil. Press batter lightly with back of spoon to flatten. Fry, adjusting burner as necessary to maintain oil temperature between 325 and 350 degrees, until deep golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer fritters to wire rack set inside rimmed baking sheet. Bring oil back to 350 degrees and repeat with remaining batter. Let fritters cool 5 minutes.
  3. Meanwhile, whisk confectioners’ sugar and cider, in medium bowl or large glass measuring cup until smooth. Top each fritter with 1 heaping tablespoon glaze. Let glaze set 10 minutes. Serve.

If you would like a lighter apple flavor in the dough or glaze, substitute apple juice for apple cider.
Preparation time: 5 minute(s)
Cooking time: 6 minute(s)
Number of servings (yield): 8
Culinary tradition: USA (General)


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Monday, October 24, 2011

Homemade Cracker Jack

"Buy me some peanuts and Cracker Jack. I don't care if I ever get back!" Who doesn't know those lines from the old song "Take Me Out to the Ballgame." Right now the peanuts and Cracker Jack seem very appropriate with the World Series in full swing and most people associate that delightful caramel concoction of peanuts and popcorn with baseball. For me, however, Cracker Jacks mean Halloween.

When I was growing up we lived several miles outside our small town. Each Halloween my parents would drive me into town to trick or treat in my grandparents' neighborhoods, those of my aunts and uncles, and their old neighborhood. It was always so much fun and at each stop at extended family there were usually special "family" treats awaiting. One of my aunts always had homemade cookies or candy for the family kids, others would have caramel apples or other delights. My grandmother, Nanny to me, always had Cracker Jack for her grandkids.

I loved getting to Nanny's house and collecting my box of Cracker Jack. It was always a battle to keep them in my Halloween bag until we got home because I wanted to start eating them immediately but even more dire was the need to get to the prize! Whatever little piece of cheap plastic nonsense that was in the box was pure gold in a six year old's mind! As an adult I kept Nanny's tradition alive by having Cracker Jack on hand for our friends' and relatives' children who came by for Halloween.

To me, Cracker Jack with its delicious combination of peanuts, caramel, and popcorn signal Halloween and Autumn. As I was waiting for Michael to get home so we could watch the Packers and Vikings I decided to whip up a batch of homemade Cracker Jack. The recipe is quite simple and I think it probably approximates the original Cracker Jack sold in the 1890's at baseball games with its gooey and clumpy quality.

When Cracker Jack was first introduced it consisted simply of the molasses and sugar mixture with peanuts and popcorn. Later on it was produced in large drums with the addition of oil to keep the popcorn from clumping together in large blobs. That's the Cracker Jack we're all familiar with in the boxes (or now in the ugly foil bags). Alas, since Frito-Lay bought the company the venerable Cracker Jack seems to be in decline. They switched out the wonderful cardboard (and recyclable) boxes for plastic and foil bags (non-recyclable) and done away with the cool prizes (I don't consider a sheet of paper a "prize"!) Maybe, one day, someone will resurrect the company and restore Sailor Jack and Bingo the dog to their rightful place on a BOX of Cracker Jack.

If you're craving some Cracker Jack, give this recipe a try. It's utterly addictive. Michael got into it before I had supper ready and ate two bowls. After supper when we finished watching or pre-taped game he polished off another bowl! I added a little Fleur de sel to the final version by sprinkling it over the slightly warm and still gooey mixture. I think that made a lot of difference as you get this wonderful little hit of saltiness with the caramel flavor of the sugar and molasses. If you don't have Fleur de sel you can use regular Kosher salt.

You might notice that I bounce back and forth between Cracker Jack and Cracker Jacks in this post. In the south we refer to Cracker Jacks (with an "s") to mean the popcorn, peanut and candy mixture. The actual name of the product is Cracker Jack (no "s") and depending on where you are that's singular or plural. So, if you're below the Mason-Dixon line you'll ask for a box of Cracker Jacks. 

This recipe is adapted from one published by NPR in an article on food at Fenway Park in 2006. The original calls for popping the popcorn in the microwave using a paper bag and oil. Honestly, I don't see the value in doing that. To make enough for the recipe you either have to use a pretty big paper bag which most of us can't fit in our standard microwave or you end up doing two or three batches. I pop corn in the microwave all the time (without oil) to save calories, but if you're dowsing the popcorn in sugar, corn syrup and molasses - honestly, what's the use? I preferred using my handy dandy old fashioned popcorn popper with a dash of butter flavored oil. I got all my popcorn in one batch and it wasn't that sort of tough texture that sometimes happens in the microwave (not to mention the requisite burned kernels in the middle of the bag!)

: Homemade Cracker Jack
: The classic ballpark (or Halloween) treat brought home to the kitchen.

  • 1/2 cup unpopped popcorn
  • 2 tbs. vegetable oil (or butter flavored popcorn oil)
  • 1/2 cup shelled peanuts (Spanish if you have them)
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup light corn syrup
  • 1 tablespoon molasses (you can use 2 tablespoons if you love molasses)
  • 1 teaspoon Kosher salt
  • Fleur de sel for sprinkling (optional)

  1. Preheat oven to 350°.
  2. Pop the popcorn using a popcorn popper or large pot on the stove according to package directions. Pour popcorn into a large bowl and add peanuts.
  3. In a saucepan mix together the brown sugar, corn syrup, molasses and salt. Heat over medium-low until the butter is melted and the sugar has lost its grainy appearance. Pour over the popcorn and peanuts and stir well.
  4. Pour the mixture onto a baking sheet and place in oven for 10-12 minutes. Stir once or twice while in oven. The mixture will be very wet and gooey at this stage! Remove from oven and allow to cool and solidify and cool on the baking sheet. Store in airtight containers.
  5. Your baking sheet will look a mess with the caramel stuck to it, but just soak in some hot water and it will come clean quickly!
Preparation time: 10 minute(s)
Cooking time: 10 minute(s)
Number of servings (yield): 24
Culinary tradition: USA (Traditional)


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Saturday, October 22, 2011

Apple Butter

I don't know what inspired me to go out and get some canning supplies. Maybe it was all those little jars of preserves I saw the other week at the apple orchard that were selling for upwards of $7 a jar. Maybe it was all the junk and chemicals in every jar of salsa, jam, or jelly in the grocery store. Maybe it was just wanting to do something I've never done without my mother or grandmother being in the kitchen. Whatever it was I decided to pick up some supplies and try my hand at some Apple Butter.

I started with Apple Butter because it is fairly easy to do and there's a nice selection of apples in the grocery stores right now. I chose to use some Fuji apples which I found in three pound bags for about $3. Since the original recipe I was working from called for about three pounds of apples it seemed tailor made for my first solo run at preserving.

This recipe works best in half-pint jars although if you want to use pints you can. I just don't think most people will use up a pint of Apple Butter after opening it before it goes bad though. But maybe you're an Apple Butter fiend and can clean out a jar in a sitting.

I have tweaked the original recipe (which is from Mary Mac's Tea Room in Atlanta) to up the flavor profile a bit. The original is pretty plain and straightforward but I wanted something that had a little more "oomph!" So, I adjusted the seasonings slightly and added two "secret" ingredients to this: a pinch of ginger and a bit of Calvados. Compared with the fairly simple butter we purchased at the orchard, the addition of these two little items gives a whole new life to this Autumn standby!

If you've never canned or preserved food before, don't be afraid. I'd not even thought of this in 20 years or more. I remember watching and helping my mother and grandmother when I was just a kid, but I've never tried it as an adult. After a little reading to refresh my memory most of it came back to me. Hot water preserving really is very simple. Basically you need sterilized jars which can be done either on the "sanitize" cycle of a dishwasher or by boiling the jars and lids for about 10 minutes. Then you just need to keep your jars warm until ready to use - the "plate warmer" or "dry" cycle of the dishwasher is perfect for that chore. Lastly you just need to fill your jars to the prescribed volume, slap on the lids and rings and process in the hot water bath for the required length of time. After processing they just need to cool for about 12-24 hours and then they're ready for the pantry for up to a year. Easy, peasy!

By the way, if you're not in the South or along the coasts, check your city's elevation. I almost forgot to do that because I've never lived anywhere above 1,000 feet. As it turns out Tucson is over 2,200 feet so I had to adjust my processing times up just a bit. For more information and recipes related to canning and preserving check out the National Center for Home Food Preservation at the University of Georgia.

I'm considering selling some of my apple butter (and maybe a few other preserves). If you're interested leave a comment. A half-pint will run about $5.25+shipping. 

: Apple Butter
: Sweet, spicy and oh, so good! The perfect use for extra Fall apples.

  • 1 cup apple juice (or cider)
  • 3 pounds cooking apples, peeled, cored, and cut into wedges
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 1 1/2 cups packed brown sugar
  • 2 tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 1 tsp. ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp. ground allspice
  • 1/4 tsp. ground cloves
  • 1/4 tsp. garam masala
  • 1 tbsp. Calvados (apple flavored liqueur)
  • 2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • Pinch of kosher salt
  • 4 half-pint glass jars with lids and rings

  1.  Please visit this link if you are unfamiliar with canning and preserving!
  2. Place the apple wedges in a medium stockpot with water. Bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to a gentle boil and continue boiling for 30 minutes or until apples are soft.
  3. Process the apples in batches using a blender or food processor with the apple juice or cider. Pulse just until the apples achieve a nice consistency - like applesauce. You don't want to liquefy the apples or make them too smooth.
  4. Transfer the processed apples to a large sauce pan and add the spices, sugars, Calvados, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Reduce heat to a simmer and continue cooking for about 45-50 minutes, stirring frequently until the mixture thickens and holds its shape on a spoon.
  5. While the apple mixture is cooking prepare your half-pint jars for preserving. Sterilize the jars and lids using the sanitize cycle of a dishwasher or wash in hot, soapy water and then boil for 10 minutes in a water bath. Keep the jars warm until the apple butter is ready to avoid breakage.
  6. When apples are ready, transfer to jars leaving about 1/4-inch headspace. Remove any air pockets and adjust volume if necessary to maintain proper headspace. Wipe the rims of the jars. Put on lids and rings and process in boiling water canner for 10 minutes (if below 1,000 feet). Remove top from the canner and allow jars to rest for five minutes. Remove from water and allow jars to cool for 12-24 hours. Apple butter may be eaten immediately if you are not canning.
Preparation time: 30 minute(s)
Cooking time: 1 hour(s) 30 minute(s)
Number of servings (yield): 4 half-pint jars
Culinary tradition: USA (Traditional)


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Sunday, October 16, 2011

Recipe & Cookbook Review: Sugar, Sugar

One of the perqs of being a moderately (minimally?) successful food blogger is receiving the occasional cookbook to review. Earlier this week I opened the mailbox to find a copy of Sugar, Sugar: Every Recipe Has a Story by Kimberly Reiner and Jenna Sanz-Agero and published by Andrews McMeel Universal. I have to admit being intrigued not only by the name but the cover photo which features a stack of cookies topped by a statue of a buffalo. I would learn later that the cookies are called Buffalo Chip Cookies and feature lots of whole grains like cornflakes, oats, and nuts.

Reiner and Sanz-Agero are mommy bloggers at Modernmom.com. Reiner also has a fudge company, Momma Reiner's Fudge which has been featured by Oprah and Rachel Ray. Additionally, the two are lawyers and Sanz-Agero a former lead singer for the band Vixen. I'll admit that sometimes I'm a little nonplussed with the "mommy blogger turned author" thing. I don't assume all women should stay at home and raise the kids and I sort of get tired of the whole "mommy" culture as though men don't do domestic duties of any sort or we're all lumbering lummoxes everywhere but at the barbecue grill. However, despite the occasional antiquated (although tragically hip) idea such as cookie swaps should be "all girl" and what not, Reiner and Sanz-Agero do manage to produce a work worthy of any kitchen shelf no matter whether the baker is male or female.

Being an amateur food historian as well as baker, I particularly enjoyed the personal stories that accompanied the recipes. While the authors readily admit taking some artistic license with some of the stories, they are intriguing and enlightening. In the recipe for Rugelach, for example, the story indicates that one traditional ingredient is missing from the heirloom recipe because her grandparents could probably not afford to buy it. Thus the recipe is subtly different and unique.

The book is for the most part a recipe compendium with the authors acting as editors, testers, and commentators. Many of the recipes seem to have been collected through their efforts at their website modernmom.com. The book even includes a form and information on how to submit your recipes for inclusion on the site or in future publications. That said, unlike many collections these recipes seem to have been tried by the authors and their notes are often enlightening in tricky situations. Likewise, the copious notes and tips are welcomed in such a work. Many are redundant to anyone who has minimal experience in the kitchen but some are quite intriguing like using a bamboo sushi mat to make perfectly round logs for rolled cookies.

The sweets in this book cover all the basics from pies and cakes to cookies and confections. Many of the recipes will be fairly familiar but there are some surprises to be found in the pages making this an easy to read and follow book well worth adding to your cookbook collection. Their website is www.sugarsugarrecipes.com.

My test recipe for the book was Oatmeal Carmelitas which feature rolled oats, chocolate, caramel and pecans in a bar cookie. These were very enjoyable and I loved the caramel with the pecans. I actually sprinkled a little fleur de sel over the caramel before baking because I simply adore the flavor of salted caramel. If I were to make any changes to the recipe it would be the addition of a little vanilla to the cookie crust for more flavor. I admit that I found the topping to be a bit too crumbly for my taste. Half of it ended up on the counter because it simply did not bind well to the filling. In the future I think I will use a bit more for the crust than the recipe calls for and make a thinner stopping. Regardless, the taste was phenomenal and I loved the texture after allowing these to come back to room temperature before eating!

: Oatmeal Carmelitas
: Chewy and delicious with caramel, pecans, and chocolate.

  • 2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp. baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 cup butter, at room temperature
  • 1 1/2 cups packed light brown sugar
  • 2 cups quick-cooking oats
  • 14 oz. soft caramel candies, unwrapped (or Kraft caramel bits)
  • 1/2 cup evaporated milk
  • 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
  • 1 cup chopped pecans (optional)

  1. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish. Set aside.
  2. In a large bowl whisk together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. Place the butter and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed until creamy. Slowly add the flour mixture and blend until incorporated. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to fold in the oats. Mixture will be crumbly. Transfer half (about 3 cups) to the baking dish. Using your fingers, gently press the mixture evenly into the bottom of the dish. Bake for 10 minutes to set.
  3. While the crust is baking, place the caramels and milk in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly until the caramels are melted. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
  4. Remove the crust from the oven and sprinkle the chocolate chips and pecans evenly over the top. Carefully pour the caramel mixture on top and spread evenly. Sprinkle the remaining crumb mixture over the top. Bake 15-20 minutes, until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate at least 2 hours or until the bars are set and firm. Cut into 2-inch squares.
Preparation time: 10 minute(s)
Cooking time: 35 minute(s)
Number of servings (yield): 12
Culinary tradition: USA (General)

Disclaimer: The publisher, Andrews McMeel Universal provided a review copy of this work to the author of this blog.

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Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Apple Kuchen

Or to be more precise, Apfel Kuchen. This happens to be one of those desserts that has been adapted so often that it's hard to figure out what the original version might be. I've seen versions that are true cakes. I've seen versions that are tarts. I've seen versions that are pies. I've seen versions that are sort of like an apple bread pudding. You name it and it's out there.

Of course, kuchen is simply the German word for cake. This version actually comes from German families in the Midwest and features a cakey crust topped by tart apples and a cinnamon streusel topping. It's actually pretty simple but oh, so good!

When I was making this I had the doors and windows open because it was such a lovely cool day here in the desert. As neighbors were taking their afternoon walks it was quite amusing to see them slow as they passed our house and take a sniff. That's how good this smells when cooking!

I really enjoyed this with the fresh tart Granny Smith apples we got in Willcox last week. However, if you prefer something else you can use whatever baking apples you prefer. The Granny Smith variety holds up nicely in the oven so the end result has more texture. But, if you want something that is more like a pie filling, choose another, less hardy variety.


: Apple Kuchen
: Delicious apple treat that is pefect for fall. Featuring cinnamon streusel over baked apples and a flaky crust.

  • 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • 1/2 cup cold, unsalted butter, diced
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 2 tsp. milk
  • 1/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract
  • 4 apples, peeled, cored and sliced
Streusel:
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
  • 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, diced

  1. Preheat oven to 325°. Grease a 9x13 or 8x12 glass baking dish with butter or non-stick spray and set aside.
  2. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment combine flour, sugar, salt, baking powder and butter. Mix at medium speed until mixture resembles small peas. In a separate small bowl beat together the egg yolks, vanilla, and milk. Add to flour mixture and blend until dough comes together.
  3. Press dough into prepared baking dish. Arrange the apple slices in rows on top of the crust.
  4. Combine the ingredients for the streusel and mix together until the mixture resembles small peas. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the apples and crust.
  5. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes until crust is golden and apples are nicely glazed with the streusel. (If using a smaller size pan increase cooking time to 45-50 minutes.)
  6. Remove from oven and serve warm, but not hot.

If you prefer a softer and less tart apple you can use Macintosh for a melt in your mouth result.

Preparation time: 10 minute(s)
Cooking time: 35 minute(s)
Number of servings (yield): 12
Culinary tradition: German
Calories: 250
Fat: 11g


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Friday, October 7, 2011

Day Trip: Apple Annie's Orchard & Farm

Apple Annie's Orchard in Willcox, AZ
Fall fell on Tucson in a big way. Sometimes it seems we have two seasons: Summer and Winter. It's either 100 degrees out and dry as a bone or it's chilly and damp! Today turned out to be the latter in Tucson.

I've been wanting to make a run down to Apple Annie's in Willcox for awhile now. They have apple orchards as well as a large farm that grows veggies. I figured it would be a great way to spend to a day and pick up some excellent farm fresh produce for the kitchen. Buying stuff at the market trucked in from Mexico and South America does get a little old when you're from the south a used to farmer's markets and roadside produce stands everywhere.

I'm not sure Michael was 100% convinced it was a good idea. It was overcast and drizzling rain in Tucson at noon when we finally decided to leave. The temp was hovering around 55 degrees and I had to go back inside and pillage through the drawers until I came up with some long pants! Good news, though, my weight loss is evident as I had to really pull the belt tight on the pair I haven't worn since March!

Michael in the Orchard
Despite the weather we hit I-10 toward Willcox and arrived about 2:30 in the afternoon. This was plenty of time to pick some apples for ourselves before closing time. Alas, being a weekday the place was dead. I finally found the one employee in the "bakery and fudge shop" and we got supplies to hit the orchard. It was a nice walk if a little windy. The sun was shining in Willcox and the temperature was about 70 degrees. But the apples were not to be seen. There were dozens that had fallen and were inedible but very few on the trees. We saw maybe one or two worth picking during our entire walk around the orchard. Finally, we decided to just buy some of the pre-picked ones they had in their bins. I got some Red Delicious which Michael enjoys eating along with some Granny Smith to either bake or make into a pie or something. Michael also got some Apple Bread and Apple Butter in their little store. Amazingly, they also had cheese curds but since they were not made in Wisconsin (who heard of Cheese Curds from Ohio?) Michael wouldn't have them. 

We were hoping for better luck at the farm so drove the six or seven miles down the road. The pickings were better there. The fields were beautiful and full of peppers and sunflowers as well as gorgeous orange pumpkins.  We ended up with a huge bag of squash, zucchini and cucumbers. We also got some green beans and a big bag of sweet corn. They had huge displays of pumpkins and other squash so we got a little pumpkin and a larger one for our Halloween decorations. I'd seen some Apple Cider doughnuts at the orchard but managed to resist temptation. When I ran across them again at the farm, I couldn't hold out and had to try some. Yes, they are delicious! I did exercise some modicum of control though and did not eat the entire half dozen!

Lady Snow among the Pumpkins.
We decided to stop off at a Popeye's and pick up some chicken and have a picnic at a rest area between Willcox and Benson. Since we had Snow with us we didn't want to eat in a restaurant where we'd have to leave her in the car. We'd stopped at this rest area as we came into Arizona in 2008. At the time there was snow all over the boulders that surround it. Honestly, it felt almost cold enough to snow when we got out! The thermometer said 63 degrees but with the wind and being in the shadows of the hills... it felt about 30 degrees!

When we finally made it home Michael decided to try some of the corn and put on a couple ears to eat while watching TV. It really was worth the trip - sweet and delicious.

Despite a cold and rainy start to the day, we had a good time and it was nice to get out of town for the day. We've been in Arizona for 3 1/2 years now and there are so many places we've never even bothered to explore. Lots of places Michael has been to years before and he's the type of person that doesn't care to see some place twice. If he's seen it, that's it. So, I relish those times when we actually go somewhere further than the center of the city or the yearly jaunt up to Prescott Valley for the holidays. I inherited my mother's wanderlust but just like her managed to settle down with a man who prefers home. I guess the apple doesn't fall far from the tree.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Potage Parmentier (Potato and Leek Soup)

It probably seems like leeks are making it into a lot of stuff lately. That's because they don't let you just buy one leek in the market. So, I've had to use up the few that came in the bunch. Honestly, never cooking with leeks before it's been something of an experiment but they've become big hits around here. We've enjoyed the subtle onion flavor they impart to things.

So, as I tried to come up with something for last night's menu I hit upon a true French classic - Potage Parmentier, or Potato and Leek Soup. This is one of those classic Julia Child type recipes that is very adaptable to what you have on hand, provided you have at least potatoes, leeks, water, and either butter or cream. But you can use up other veggies you have handy as well.

If you're hitting Google Translate and coming up blank on "Parmentier" that's because it's actually a proper name. Long, long ago during the Seven Years War there was an army pharmacist named Antoine-Augustin Parmentier. Parmentier was captured and thrown in a Prussian prison. While there he was forced to eat potatoes. For us that wouldn't be such horrible punishment (especially me) but for Parmentier as a Frenchman it was "quelle horreur!" The French only used potatoes for animal feed and actually banned the cultivation of the potato for human consumption because they thought it was poisonous and contributed to leprosy. So, Parmentier was aghast but he ate them rather than starve.

A few years later as he conducted research on nutrition he remembered eating the potatoes and suggested they might be good for patients with dysentery. His research won him a prize in 1772 and the French medical establishment declared potatoes edible that same year. But, all was not well. The religious community still held the belief that potatoes were inedible and blocked Parmentier from cultivating them in his test gardens or feeding them to patients regularly. So Parmentier decided to try some guerilla marketing. He began hosting lavish dinners with dignitaries and royalty where he served various potato dishes. He even posted armed guards around his personal potato patch so that people would think the potatoes were extremely valuable. He would then remove the guards and let the local residents "steal" his treasure!

It wasn't until a famine in 1785 that people in France finally embraced the lowly, but oh so versatile potato. By 1795 and the opening of the Napoleonic wars the potato was even being cultivated in the gardens of the Tuileries to stave off famine and hunger.

And there you have the story of Potage Parmentier a lovely French soup made with leeks and potatoes that will not only stave off hunger at your dinner table but keep your guests coming back for more!

This version, adapted loosely from Julia Child, features the traditional leeks. I've found a shortcut to chopping and peeling potatoes in the form of hash browns. I had pulled out my bag of Yukon Gold potatoes to start peeling and chopping when I happened upon my bag of hash browns in the freezer. I had exactly the amount needed for the recipe. I've used hash browns in the past to speed along other potato soups like my Baked Potato Soup. Rather than peel and chop, I decided to use my hash browns. It works perfectly in this recipe and can save you a step if you're doing a multi-course meal.

Potage Parmentier can also contain more than potatoes and leeks. This is a real peasant soup so other vegetables can add lots of flavors. I chose some left over carrots I had in the fridge. Traditionally, this is finished with butter or cream to give the soup it's creamy texture. I decided to use butter but also added about a tablespoon of sour cream (Creme Fraiche would be even better if you have it.) I liked the very hint of tartness in the background. I also used chicken broth in place of water as the soup base. I like the flavor complexity of the broth and it gives the soup a little something extra. This is one of those times when using a store bought broth is best, however. If you make your own it might be a little too good and overpower the veggies. Store bought broths tend to have just a bit of the chicken flavor without being so strong or rich. I suggest Swanson broth in this. The addition of the broth made the scent of the soup while cooking nearly irresistible!

To garnish this you can use finely chopped green onion, chives, or herbs. I didn't have any chives or green onion on hand, so used a little cracked pepper with some dried rosemary and dill weed.

I really enjoyed making this soup because it is simple and easy. Michael loved it as a first course to the chicken breasts stuffed with spinach and onions. Another benefit of Potage Parmentier is that it can be served hot, room temperature, or chilled and remain delicious!

So, as Julia would say "Bon apetit!"

: Potage Parmentier (Potato and Leek Soup)
: A classic French soup that can be served hot, cold, or room temperature. Adapted from Julia Child.

  • 1 lb. potatoes, peeled and diced (or use hash browns)
  • 3 cups leeks, thinly sliced (white and tender green parts only)
  • 2 cups carrots, sliced into coins (optional)
  • 2 quarts chicken broth
  • 1 tbs. kosher salt
  • 1 tbs. cracked pepper
  • 4 -6 tbs. heavy cream or 2 -3 tbs. softened butter
  • 1-2 tbs. sour cream or creme fraiche (optional)

  1. Pour chicken stock into large pot with leeks, potatoes and carrots (if using). Bring to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer. Partially cover and cook for 60 minutes or until vegetables are very tender. Season with salt and pepper.
  2. Puree the soup using either an immersion blender or allow to cool slightly and transfer to a regular blender. Blend until smooth. Return to pot if using a regular blender. Adjust seasonings as needed.
  3. When ready to serve stir in butter or cream and sour cream or creme fraiche (if using). If soup is too thick, add water until it reaches the right consistency. You want a thick soup but not so thick it resembles whipped potatoes!
  4. Ladle into bowls or a soup tureen. May be served warm, cold or room temperature. Garnish as desired with chives, sliced green onion, parsley or herbs of choice.
Preparation time: 10 minute(s)

Cooking time: 1 hour(s)
Number of servings (yield): 4
Culinary tradition: French
Calories: 259
Fat: 10.3
Protein: 7.2


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